Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has made history by becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks, a remarkable achievement accomplished by only a few elite climbers globally. Khan’s latest triumph came on Friday, October 4, when he successfully scaled Shishapangma, an 8,027-metre peak in Tibet, without the use of supplementary oxygen, marking the completion of his impressive 14-peak journey.
Hailing from Hunza, Khan embarked on his quest to conquer the world’s highest mountains in 2017, beginning with Nanga Parbat, a notoriously dangerous 8,126-metre peak. This initial ascent set the stage for his extraordinary career as a high-altitude mountaineer. Over the years, Khan has tackled some of the most challenging peaks in the world, including K2 in July 2018 and Lhotse in May 2019, where he became the first Pakistani to reach the summit of the 8,516-metre peak.
In July 2019, Khan added Broad Peak to his growing list of achievements, reaching its 8,051-metre summit without the use of supplemental oxygen, a hallmark of his climbs. Later that year, he made headlines in September when he summited Manaslu in Nepal, becoming only the second Pakistani to reach its 8,163-metre peak.
Khan’s unwavering determination led him to become the first Pakistani to summit Annapurna in April 2021, one of the most perilous mountains in the world. The following month, he achieved another significant milestone by successfully climbing Mount Everest, the highest peak on the planet, standing at 8,849 metres.
In July 2021, Khan demonstrated his leadership skills by guiding an all-Pakistani team to the summit of Gasherbrum II, standing at 8,035 metres. Later that year, in October, he became the first Pakistani to conquer Dhaulagiri, an 8,167-metre peak.
Continuing to break barriers, Khan summited Kangchenjunga in May 2022 and Makalu later that month, becoming the first Pakistani to conquer both formidable mountains. In August 2022, he led another successful expedition to Gasherbrum I, marking his 12th ascent of an 8,000-metre peak.
In October 2023, Khan added Cho Oyu to his list of conquests, becoming the first Pakistani to summit the 8,188-metre peak. His successful ascent of Shishapangma on October 4 has now officially completed his mission to conquer all 14 of the world’s highest peaks.
Khan’s extraordinary achievements, which include summiting 11 of these peaks without supplementary oxygen, have earned him both national and international recognition. His journey is a testament to his skill, determination, and resilience, solidifying his status as a true icon in the world of mountaineering.
